Casa Raffaele

Agricultura | Bed & Breakfast

Friends and Good Food – Glimmers in the Continuous Rain

This morning, unfortunately, after another night of heavy rainfall, I paid an early visit to our Cascina. While the plasterers, native Sicilians, were surprisingly lively despite the damp and cold, engaging me in conversation about the bad weather and saying it was probably similar to Germany, and meanwhile working diligently, the lumberjack took a well-deserved break. Understandably, it was far too wet for those tasks. Nevertheless, I put on my boots and rain gear and checked what he had accomplished in the last two days, and I am very satisfied. Although the young Albanian understands very little Italian and is even less able to speak it, he grasped through signs, gestures, and a translation app on his phone what our goal is with the work: to provide a splendid view of the Tuscan hills without causing deforestation.

Amidst the gloom of continuous rain, a call from Epiphanio, the father of Emanuela, a dear friend who lives with her husband Luca and little daughter Alice just a few kilometers away, woke me up. I consider myself very fortunate to also call Epiphanio and his lovely wife, Maria Rita, friends.

Therefore, it is a real surprise and joy that Epiphanio, who has just returned from his four-month summer stay in his Sicilian homeland to Peccioli, spontaneously calls me and suggests we head to Livorno for a good and reasonably priced Pranzo (lunch). I don't need to be told twice. When it comes to discovering a restaurant I haven't tried yet, count me in. Epiphanio has chosen the restaurant "Il Deserto," popular among craftsmen, workers, and families. However, the name probably only refers to the surroundings, as the restaurant is located in a not very pretty outskirts of Livorno near the port, because inside, it is crowded with people jostling at the counter to pay or have a coffee, pure or corretto, making it more reminiscent of an oasis than a desert.

After a brief introduction by the friendly Francesco, we are assigned a free table, quickly cleared of the remnants of the previous occupancy. The dishes are listed on several large slate boards, offering a generous selection of meat and fish dishes. We choose Spaghetti allo Scoglio (with seafood) and then Frittura di Paranza (fried small fish), a typical and simple dish served in many seaside locations. To accompany, we share half a liter of white wine and water. It's almost daring to say that we paid only 30€ in total, including two coffees, for a truly good and delicious lunch.

Later, in slightly stormy weather, we take a stroll on the impressive Terrazza Mascagni along the promenade of Livorno and then embark on the 45-minute journey back. A beautiful and varied afternoon comes to an end.

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